The same album can exist in dozens or even hundreds of different pressings — each with potentially different mastering, pressing quality, and collector value. A first pressing of a Beatles album might be worth $500; a 2020 reissue of the same album costs $30. Knowing what you have is essential for collecting.
Identifying pressings is a learnable skill. It requires checking three things: the dead wax (etched codes near the center label), the label design, and the catalog number. This guide teaches you how to read these identifiers and cross-reference them with Discogs.
Read the Dead Wax
The dead wax (also called run-out groove) is the blank area between the last track and the label. Hold the record at an angle under bright light — you'll see etched or stamped codes. These are matrix numbers that identify the specific master lacquer and stamper used to press your record.
Write down everything you see: numbers, letters, symbols, and any hand-etched inscriptions. Common elements include the catalog number (e.g., 'PCS 7027'), mastering engineer initials (e.g., 'KG' for Kevin Gray), pressing plant codes, and sometimes mother/stamper identifiers.
Check the Label
Record labels changed their designs over time. For example, early UK Parlophone labels (Beatles era) used a yellow-and-black design that changed to a more modern silver-and-black design later. The specific label design narrows down the pressing period significantly.
Note the catalog number on the label, the country of manufacture, any 'Made in...' text, and the label's color scheme and logo design. Take photos for reference when cross-checking on Discogs.
Cross-Reference on Discogs
Search the album on Discogs and click 'All Versions' to see every known pressing. Filter by country and format. Click into specific pressings and compare their listed matrix numbers, catalog numbers, and label descriptions with what you found on your record.
Discogs submissions include photos of labels and dead wax uploaded by the community. Compare your record's label design and dead wax codes with the photos. When everything matches — matrix numbers, catalog number, label design — you've identified your pressing.
Understand What Your Pressing Means
Once identified, check the pressing's sales history on Discogs for market value. Read user reviews for sound quality assessments. Check Steve Hoffman Forums for audiophile opinions on that specific pressing.
Key factors that affect value: first pressings are generally more valuable, specific mastering engineers (Kevin Gray, Bernie Grundman) add value, pressing plant quality matters, and condition is always king — a NM copy of a common pressing can be worth more than a VG copy of a rare one.
Pro Tips
- Use a bright flashlight or phone torch to read dead wax inscriptions — they can be subtle
- Photograph your dead wax and labels — easier to compare digitally than squinting at the record
- Some mastering engineers leave signature marks: 'A Porky Prime Cut' (George Peckham), 'KG' (Kevin Gray), 'RL' (Robert Ludwig)
- Japanese pressings are often identifiable by their OBI strip and unique catalog numbers starting with manufacturer prefixes
- If your matrix numbers include 'DMM' — that's a Direct Metal Mastering pressing, a different (and sometimes preferred) mastering process
- When in doubt, post photos of your dead wax and label on the Discogs forums — the community is incredibly helpful at identifying pressings
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does it matter which pressing I have?
Different pressings can sound dramatically different — different mastering, different pressing plants, different source material. They also vary significantly in value. Knowing your pressing helps you understand what you own, assess its worth, and make informed decisions about upgrades.
What if I can't find my pressing on Discogs?
If your exact matrix numbers and label design don't match any existing entry, you may have an unlisted pressing. You can submit a new entry to Discogs (it's community-maintained). The forums and submission guidelines help ensure accuracy.